Use your own domain name with Third Light

DNS stands for Domain Name System. It’s a sort of phone book for the internet; when one computer needs to call another computer, it checks DNS to find the other computer’s “phone number.” That “phone number” is called an IP Address.

Third Light sites are most effective and look best when hosted under your own domain name. For example:

Instead of http://company.thirdlight.com
you can have:
http://ims.company.com/

Using your own domain name looks much more personalised, and best of all, this is a free service available on all IMS sites hosted by Third Light.

Asking your domain host to change the DNS records

If you want to use your domain name with your IMS site, you need to ask your domain host to adjust the DNS records.

First, pick your subdomain. If your domain name is company.com then the subdomain might be something like ims.company.com. It is usually one extra word of your choosing, just before the main part of your domain name.

Tell your DNS provider to point your subdomain using a CNAME record to the existing address of your IMS site.

For example, ask them to make ims.company.com a CNAME record for company.thirdlight.com (where ‘company.thirdlight.com’ is replaced with the actual address your IMS site is currently using).

Then, email Third Light support (support@thirdlight.com) to let us know, and we’ll add your domain to your IMS site.

Changing DNS records yourself

You may be able to do this yourself from a control panel provided with your domain name. If so, you need to update a DNS record known as a “CNAME” so that your subdomain points to the address of your thirdlight.com site.

If your DNS provider does not support CNAME entries, please email for further advice from our support team (support@thirdlight.com).

Image Resolution and JPEG Quality

JPEG Image Quality

In the last part of this blog article I discussed how JPEG compression works. I described how you can obtain different file sizes by adjusting the compression settings, and how the size of the file grows very rapidly if you set the quality near to maximum.

Now it’s time to look at image quality. Compression is only part of image quality, and I want to explore several other facets of quality which contribute to the final result.

A new definition: “perceived quality”

We need to start with a perfect photograph on a perfect DSLR, with a perfect lens. Imagine that the equipment, the lighting, the focus and even the subject are all “just right”, and then you hit the shutter and capture the perfect photograph. This starts our discussion with a datum from which we can measure our losses, and avoids problems discussing images that are not high quality sources to start with due to equipment flaws.

The digital camera transforms the light that has hit the sensor into a digitised image. Modern 35mm digital backs are capturing images at around 18 megapixels – that means you have 18 million points of information in the digitised version of the image. One way to think of it is as a square image area of 4200 pixels in both horizontal and vertical space. (4200 x 4200 = about 18 million)

It’s important to realise just exactly what an enormous amount of information this is. You’d need two 30″ LCD displays operating at 72 dpi to get the image width in view without zooming out. Alternatively, at 300 dpi you could print an image over 14 inches wide from this source. (Confused? Don’t forget to read the blog article about image resolution!).

Now let’s save the file as a JPEG.

For the sake of argument, we save it at 95% quality. This is the first point in the scenario of the perfect image that we’ve made a compromise: we’ve thrown away some information, or diluted the perfection of the photo, by using JPEG.

The chances are we can’t see any difference at all. There are two reasons:

  1. JPEG compression is very effective at retaining almost all important details in a photograph when used at 95% compression;
  2. The original file is so big that the defects and artifacts JPEG has introduced are small in relation to the image area.

There are defects and changes in the JPEG, however, our perception of quality is unchanged.

You could continue to compress the image more and more until you can notice the difference. At that point you have an image that is perceptibly lower quality than the original, perfect photo. That point will be different for every person you test, every viewing system you test (eg. screen or print) and every different photo you test because of the nature of JPEG compression.

When we talk about JPEG quality, we need to be careful to say “perceived quality” and we need to recognise that it is hard to measure in an absolute way.

Image area versus JPEG quality

We’re discussing a very large image (4200×4200). Now let’s say my intention is to store this image in a way that is suitable for printing at 300 dpi, using JPEG to save on disk space.

As I mentioned above, by dividing the pixels into the DPI value 300 we get a print that is 14″ x 14″ as our theoretical maximum.

If I save the image at very high compression settings, where the compression artifacts are highly pronounced and the original image is badly degraded, I still have 4200 x 4200 pixels. It’s very important to make some allowance for this: the information that has been lost cannot be recovered, and we should accept that the maximum print size is no longer 14″ x 14″. It must be less.

What is the right balance of image size and compression for high quality JPEGs?

JPEG artifacts are much more noticeable at high compression settings. This argument is most powerful when we are talking about over-compression of files that are too big to start with.

In that case, the best thing to do is resize the source image so that it is smaller, and then save it with a lower compression level. You could actually halve its dimensions – which might sound surprising – and get better perceived quality this way.

Here are some relevant numbers:

  • Reducing from 18 megapixels to 9 megapixels is a halving of the image area (a 50% saving in raw data)
  • A 9 megapixel image itself is still 3000 x 3000 pixels (ie. 71% of the original width and 71% of the original height).
  • The compression level can now be moved away from the settings where JPEG artifacts are very obvious to somewhere where they are more subtle.

I’ve prepared two example images and magnified them for you to show you the effect.

  • Image A’s original is exactly 8 megapixels
  • Image B’s original is exactly 4 megapixels
  • Both files have the same size on disk (to within 1%)

(Important: I have zoomed in substantially and cropped a small area to show you the results more clearly)

IMAGE A – 8 megapixel source, very high compression:

IMAGE A - 8 megapixel source, very high compression

IMAGE A - 8 megapixel source, very high compression

IMAGE B – 4 megapixel source, modest compression:

IMAGE B - 4 megapixel source, modest compression

IMAGE B - 4 megapixel source, modest compression

Reference image – No compression:

Reference image - No compression

Reference image - No compression

Remember, image A and image B’s sources have the same file size on disk. The lower perceived quality in image A is caused by using too much JPEG compression, even though it’s got twice as many pixels as image B.

It is as if we have two competing factors – image compression versus image content – and that the reduction in area approach to saving space wins. This happens because reducing the number of pixels provides a shorter route to obtaining a small file size than the JPEG compression curve can compete with.

Notes: The example uses very heavy compression (image A quality setting = 10 and image B quality setting = 26), and the difference is quite pronounced. In general, the effect could be more subtle. I performed the test with image A = 50 and B = 75 (again giving identical file sizes). Another pairing is A = 80, B = 89 for my test photo.

As the gap closes, the detail in the 8 megapixel file is being more properly preserved. Assuming you are trying to minimise the file size (probably to move the file quickly over the internet), then if you need that detail you should not use excessive compression. If you don’t need that detail, reduce the image dimensions first.

Summary: how to define image quality for JPEGs

“Quality” is one of the words which has become embedded in our language when we talk about JPEG images. When we use this word we’re normally saying something like this: ”high quality means low compression; low quality means high compression”.

While that captures the essence of JPEG compression trends, it doesn’t connect to our perception of the image quality we obtain quite so neatly.

If you’re trying to use JPEG to compress very large files for a substantial saving in disk space, you are probably better advised to reduce the pixel size of the source and use a less aggressive compression setting for that JPEG.

In the next post I’ll talk about the other topics I promised to get onto, namely:

  • Tips for posting JPEGs to the web
  • Tips for archiving master images (and other file formats)

Don’t forget to subscribe to get an alert about the next part of the blog!

The DAM Foundation

Third Light – Charter Member of the DAM Foundation

Third Light is proud to have become a charter member of the Digital Asset Management Foundation.

One thing that everyone in the DAM industry agrees would benefit buyers, researchers and users of DAM software is a vendor-neutral space to discuss the industry. As well as thought leadership and education, the DAM Foundation is a great opportunity to standardise the way that DAM software is delivered and improve the search for solutions for newcomers.

The DAM Foundation

The DAM Foundation

How to Join the DAM Foundation

If you are a regular user of DAM software, you can help build the future of our industry by joining the DAM Foundation today. Professional membership is free.

Web site: http://damfoundation.org

Twitter: http://twitter.com/#!/damfoundation

LinkedIn: http://3rd.lt/39flH [currently very active]

Tips for creating high quality JPEG images

JPEG Compression – How does it work?

The JPEG file format is one of the most important innovations of the internet era. Its amazing ability to render high quality images from small files is achieved using the limitations in human vision to discard data youprobably won’t notice.

  1. JPEG takes advantage of our eye’s low sensitivity to details in certain areas by down-sampling (think of this like converting four pixels into one averaged pixel). However, it retains detail in areas of bright, high-contrast edges.
  2. Instead of smoothing detail in the whole image, JPEG selects which regions of the image, or even just channels of colour in the image that can tolerate these averaging effects without being noticed. One example is that it uses our eye’s reduced response to yellow-blue light (compared to red-green) and reduces the information stored in these colour channels.

In addition to these tricks on our perception of the image, JPEG compression removes redundancy – and that’s one reason you can’t compress JPEG files any further with traditional tools like ZIP.

How well does JPEG compression work?

Well, if we compare a typical JPEG file to a TIFF image – that’s a reference format that traditionally uses no compression at all – then we find that JPEG files are generally as little as 10% of the file size of the TIFF.

The most striking benefit of JPEG is that a file that would take 10 seconds to load in your web browser now takes 1 second.

This is just scratching the surface though: what we must do is consider some of the downsides of JPEG compression, especially considering that graphics tools give you many choices when creating JPEG files. From there we can try and get the optimal file size while still obtaining a high quality level.

How to create high quality JPEGs

The first rule of high quality JPEGs is that you should never open, edit and save a JPEG image repeatedly.

If you do that, the losses in the compression method used by JPEG will accumulate each time you save and then reopen the file, so each successive version of the file will be slightly worse than the last version. Instead, use a lossless working format (covered in a forthcoming blog post).

Secondly: once a JPEG, always a JPEG. Don’t convert a JPEG to another format like TIFF to recover quality, as you can’t reverse the losses in the JPEG file.

The next big factor is the quality setting.

JPEG compression settings

JPEG compression settings

You will find a quality setting in any software that can save JPEG images. This is often a number from 0 to 100, or may be expressed as “high quality”, “medium quality” and so on. In PhotoShop, the quality is graded on a scale of 1 to 12.

As you add more compression – ie. lower the quality setting – the file size shrinks but the image is visibly degraded more. This reduction in detail is a result of the lossy nature of JPEG compression.

The loss that you see will become much more apparent when the compression is set very high (ie. quality between 0 and 20), while correspondingly, as you increase quality, you increase the size of the output file far more rapidly as you approach 100.

Compression vs. file size curve

It’s very important to know that the numbers we talk about with JPEG are not normally in a simple relationship – for example, choosing 95 on the quality setting does not mean there is a further 5% more quality left to give, and nor does a compression setting of 10 mean that the file can be reduced to ten times smaller by lowering the compression setting to 1.

These are both commonly held beliefs but quite wrong, and arguably with quality, impossible to quantify!

In order to help you choose an appropriate compression level, I’ve analysed a JPEG file containing some random content at different compression levels. Here is a graph showing the size of the file saved at each compression level from 1 to 100:

Graph of JPEG compression and file size

Graph of JPEG compression and file size

Important: the file size in bytes is on a logarithmic axis. The values double at each point on the file size axis.

  1. You should be able to see that a high quality comes with an increasingly high storage price tag as you approach 100.
  2. In fact, the largest file on the chart (quality 100) is about 50 times bigger than the smallest file.
  3. At quality 95 it’s only 20 times bigger. Setting the quality level just slightly lower significantly shrinks the file – and usually, for no perceptible change.

You are probably most interested in the high quality end (where all the real uses of JPEG are found). My advice is to keep the quality setting between 70 and 90 for good results. Above 95 is a very wasteful setting for all but the most specific end uses. Around 60 to 70 is perfect for good quality web use.

Diminishing returns on JPEG Compression

What about the lowest possible quality setting? We all know from experience with JPEG that the image will be very blocky and degraded. A much better result can be obtained for just a little more file size. How do we quantify this “quality” measurement though?

The nature of perception of quality makes it quite difficult to show you a graph of image quality versus file size. Remember, the graph above was about compression versus file size – it doesn’t tell you how good the image looks after compression.

In the two examples below, I’ve zoomed in on a JPEG saved twice at different compression levels. When you look at these images, bear in mind that Image A is a mere 9KB larger on disk than Image B.

Boats - Image A

Boats - Image A

Boast - Image B

Boast - Image B

You can see more detail, ie. better quality in Image A. If you’re in any doubt, look at the sky to the left of the nearest boat.

Chances are, you haven’t accepted low quality JPEGs but you might well have been tempted to save JPEGs at quality 100 (many do).

The shape of the compression graph and this example should convince you to think carefully about the trade-off of compression and quality, and not just to always set the quality at maximum or go for the smallest file size every time.

When to use very high quality JPEG settings

The shape of the compression curve actually changes according to the image being compressed. This happens because the opportunities available to JPEG to save space depend on the actual content of the image: how much variability in colour, tone and brightness is there to contend with?

There are some images which suffer more noticeably from the lossy compression of JPEG, because the compression system has been less successful in finding compression opportunities, or has done something to the image which is more noticeable than normal.

Here are some examples:

  • Scenes with very large areas of colour gradient, for example, a panoramic sunset – these will look banded in discrete stripes
  • Scenes with large dark areas – these will look blocky
  • Scenes with high contrast details, eg. text, logos and sharp boundaries – these will look fuzzy

In images of this sort, you must either use a higher JPEG compression level, or (especially in the case of text and logos) move to a lossless compression format. I’ll discuss that in part 2. You might also like JPEG 2000, which is very good at avoiding these kind of problems.

In the next part of this blog, I’ll be exploring more points about JPEG compression and images on the web.

  • What is the relationship between image resolution and JPEG compression?
    This is a particularly interesting area. When is quality not really quality? This follows up on my article about image resolution, but from the point of view of JPEG files and compression.

After that I’ll be moving onto:

  • How to prepare JPEG files for display on the internet
    I’ll explain this at a technical level and share some practical advice about copyright, too.
  • How to archive master images, and lossless formats
    This will cover other file formats, the use of RAW files and mass storage for the long term – some important aspects of digital image workflow.

If there is anything else you’d like to see discussed, please comment on this blog post. I shall try and cover your questions, too, so please go ahead and ask.

How to Change Image Resolution

How to Change Image Resolution

The value of DPI for a digitally sourced file has been the cause of many misunderstandings. It is quite common to be asked to supply a file at 300 dpi, or to send a “higher resolution version”, particularly when giving files to printers and publishers.

The problem can be characterised like this: a great photo is being planned for use in a brochure, and the mock up looks good. The file is delivered to the printer but is rejected as being too low resolution. A 300 DPI version is needed.

This is the puzzling part. The original file looks ok – it’s a pristine photo from a modern digital camera and it’s definitely a high quality image. The printer is asking for the file at 300 dpi so that they can obtain a good quality print.

This often leads people to ask how to convert DPI – in other words, how to increase or decrease the resolution of an image.

You may like to read our blog post on image resolution and quality at this stage, because in most cases there is no reason to change the dots per inch. Instead, the problem is a misunderstanding about what DPI really means: the density of the print is different from the quality of the source file. You won’t invent extra detail by increasing DPI!

Converting Photo Resolution in Adobe PhotoShop

In PhotoShop, open the ‘Image’ menu and go to ‘Image Size’. Change the ‘Resolution’ box to the desired value, eg. 300 pixels/inch.

How to change image resolution in PhotoShop

How to change image resolution in PhotoShop

Tip: try unselecting the ‘Resample Image’ checkbox. If you do this, you can easily see the effect of changing the DPI value on the physical dimensions of the file (in CM in Inches). Doubling the DPI halves the physical dimensions, and halving the DPI doubles the physical dimensions.

Converting Image Resolution using Third Light IMS

In Third Light IMS, when you download a file you can change the DPI at the point you request your download. IMS performs image resizing and converts resolution for you as part of preparing your file.

Third Light IMS converts resolution and DPI for a wide range of different formats, including converting PDFs to TIFF or changing PDF to JPEG while also changing the resolution to 300 DPI.

How to change image resolution in Third Light IMS

How to change image resolution in Third Light IMS

Tip: These operations are all provided at the point of download in an interactive wizard, and since Third Light IMS is designed for shared use you could ask the printer/publisher to log in and download the file in the exact format they require.

Free Image Resolution Converter (Online tool)

If you have a file you need to convert, and you don’t have access to PhotoShop or a digital asset management system like Third Light IMS, then you could try our free image converter tool. This can be found here:

http://www.thirdlight.com/converter

Image search engines – the case for better user interfaces

Great search engine, mediocre user interface?

Most image search engine software tries to connect images with results using a sophisticated relevance scoring approach, but fail to provide a useful interface to the user. All too often, a great deal of effort is required on the part of the user to supply simple search refinements.

A better solution should make the user interface smarter, so that all of the possible power of the search engine is available to the user without excessive keyboard inputs.

Image Search Suggestions

Third Light IMS v6.0 comes with a brand new search engine interface which adapts as you use it, offering suggestions about related keywords (or other metadata) in a panel to the right of the search results.

The suggestions in the panel are based on files that share some of the same metadata as the main search results, and are designed to give you more possible search ideas and a point-and-click interface to continue exploring.

To make this interface as powerful as possible, the search engine looks at a wide range of possible search suggestions and decides which give the best possible refinements of your results.

This is one of the most innovative and smart new features in version 6, so we’ve produced a video to show you how it works.

Video of Third Light Image Search Engine

Video of Third Light Image Search Engine

Faceted Search

Even if you have a significant number of customised fields, the intelligent choices made by the search engine will give you a manageable set of search suggestions. The changing interface is known as ‘faceting’, where IMS will update and revise the information you see according the search you perform.

Even though it is significantly more advanced than previous generations of image search, the new Third Light search system provides a completely point-and-click search system. Our aim is that you won’t need a keyboard when you refine search terms, because IMS will suggest the filters to you, with intelligence built-in.

IMS v6.0 user interface update

Third Light IMS v6.0 will be available in summer 2011, and we are keen to share the new product with you.

To get a feel for the new user interface in version 6, we’ve created a page of screenshots with some explanatory text. You can view our latest screenshots here:

ttp://www.thirdlight.com/ims/overview/screenshots6/

We hope you will agree that IMS v6.0 is a significant update. Please let us know if you’d like to try it ahead of the release, as we are very happy to share the new version with our customers.

Don’t forget, as well as these hints and tips we also run a Digital Asset Management Blog!